Rock Climbing around Quadra Island
Chinese Mountains Area
Chinese Mountains are a well-known Quadra Island landmark and the destination for one of the Island's more popular hiking trails. There are two peaks, the north and the south peak with trails up to the top of both. The network of hiking trails up and around Chinese Mountains and to nearby Morte Lake make getting to the crags a breeze and offer mountain biking and hiking as additional activities from the same parking lot (50° 8'29.76"N 125°15'28.38"W).
The bluffs at Chinese Mountains are scattered up the hillside below the south peak. Most of the rock is best reached from the west side trail except the upper, main crag which can be reached off the main trail that goes up to the pass between both peaks - more on that later. The walk to these crags is ridiculously short! Morte Lake is nearby and is basically part of this same climbing area.
The rock is a granitic basalt, it is mostly clean and well weathered. Some of the coarser weathered rock has numerous marble-sized quartz crystals giving a very grippy surface. Like the Vancouver Island basalt there are few cracks and natural protection so almost all the routes are bolt protected.
Highlights of climbing here include: the views over the southern peninsula of Quadra Island and the mountains on both sides; the mainland Coast Range mountains to the east and the peaks of Strathcona Park on Vancouver Island to the west, the pretty moss-covered ledges and the large, numerous soaring raptors, surviving veteran old-growth Douglas Fir and Lodgepole Pine trees.
Helmets should always be worn while climbing to protect from head injury in case of a fall but they are especially advised here as there are loose rocks hidden in the moss that are easily dislodged. This is a climbing area in progress - stay tuned for additional information and ongoing route development.
Moss carpets at the top and around the crags are very beautiful and have numerous wildflowers popping through but they can be slippery and are not well adhered to the underlying rock. Take extreme care moving around on the exposed ledges especially in wet conditions.
QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING
Guidebook available>
Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.
Track your climbs: many of the routes on Quadra have been added to Sendage.com. See more here>
Access: The Chinese Mountains trailhead is located toward the centre of Quadra Island north of Heriot Bay. From the ferry terminal in Quathiaski Cove drive north on West Road following signs for Heriot Bay. In the village of Heriot Bay turn left on Hyacinthe Bay Road or Cramer Road (which also joins Hyacinthe Bay Road) and continue north. Pass North Gowlland Harbour Road and down a steep hill. Pass the Walcan Road on the left where the trailhead for Morte Lake (which does join the Chinese Mountains trail) is located. Drive up the steep hill past the Eco-Centre and then watch for the turn-off to Chinese Mountains on the left before the top of the hill. It's about a 15 minute drive from the ferry.
From the Chinese Mountains trail parking lot there are two trails.
Straight ahead is the most direct trail on a steep, old logging road that leads to a forested saddle between the North and South Peaks this is the quickest way to reach either peak and an optional route to the East Wall.
To the left is the west side (Beech's Mountain) trail that traverses a forested bench past most of the lower crags, then heads uphill to the top of the South Peak with a spur heading higher up to Beech's Mountain.
Both of these trails meet at the South Peak forming a loop. Beech's Mountain is reached by a spur off this loop on the west side of the South Peak.
Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one route, but any contribution is appreciated.
Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0
- Thanks, see you at the crags!
Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>
QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>
Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.
ONLINE GUIDE SAMPLE
Described below is a sample of some of the rock climbing routes at Chinese Mountains. For complete details of 200 Quadra climbing routes order a copy of the Quadra Island Rock Climbs guidebook available from Wild Isle Guides>
MANZANITA WALL
Manzanita Wall is one of the closest crags to the parking lot. The wall is steep but not quite vertical with a mix of clean, smooth and well-weathered rock. The climbing is less strenuous than neighbouring Leaning Tree Edge. It’s a good choice for a warm up or a full session, with a variety of good quality, moderate routes.
To reach Manzanita Wall hike along the Beech’s Mountain trail just 150m from the parking lot until a well-trodden path can be seen heading uphill from the trail, up a draw of mossy boulders. Look through the trees to see the Great Wall high above. Hike up the draw following the path out on to the open mossy bluff. Traverse left out to the middle of the open, mossy meadow. Hike left (west) across mossy ledges into a cluster of trees and then up a small talus slope, still trending left (west) to the base of the crag.
The main crag face is a wide wall, split into two distinct halves, divided by a shallow corner/gully down the middle. The right half is higher than the left with more continuous lines. At around 30m high, caution is needed with rappels and top ropes using a 60m rope.
West Wing - a 15-20m wall at the far left end of the crag. From the centre of the crag follow the trail left and just before it drops into the forested draw hike up behind large old-growth firs over a band of easy ledges to the base of a long, low-hanging, square-cut roof with a very large salmon-berry bush growing under it.
DD DEERFLY DIRECT 5.8 15m *
At the extreme left (west) side of the whole crag. Keep to the right edge of the delicate wall using the arête as needed. Tricky finish to big ledge. (6 bolts - rappel rings)
FA: Mick Bromley, Philip Stone 21 July, 2014
Main Wall - the central, highest part of the crag. The main wall is divided by a shallow gully-like scoop. The left side has a wide, but exposed belay ledge that runs all the way from DEERFLY DIRECT to the base of BATMANZ MIDDAY FLIGHT. Care is needed on the ledge, the smooth rock can be very slick.
The base of the climbs to the right of the gully are easily reached just above the central staging area.
MB MANZ BEST FRIEND 5.8 24m *
Scramble up to the right edge of the belay ledge below the central corner of SHEEP THRILLS (bottom anchor shared with BATMANZ). Start up the first short wall trending left to a ledge (5.8). Follow a low-angle apron left across the lower part of the gully. Then climb direct to the left of the gully on steepening rock. Pull over a small bulge into a steep, shallow corner (5.8) to finish onto a very small belay ledge. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Bill Phipps, Philip Stone 17 July, 2014
BP BIRDS OF PREY 5.7 27m **
Fun route, great value for the grade. Starts on the right side of the main wall. Begin up the short lower block on the brown rock to the ledge (5.7) (take care with loose rock on the ledge). Climb up the steep wall above the ledge on positive holds and generous bolt protection (5.7). Make a committing step right to gain an angled ramp and arête. Follow the ramp leftward (5.5) with increasing exposure & stunning views on good rock and big holds. (10 bolts - Rappel Ring).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 19 May, 2014
LEANING TREE EDGE
Leaning Tree Edge is a steep, clean crag hidden behind a stand of old growth Douglas Fir trees, growing close, two even lean right against the upper edge of the rock. Reach the base by hiking up from the west side trail 150m west of the parking lot up an open, mossy bluff passing Manzanita Wall which is to the left (west). The open bluff ends at a small talus slope at the bottom of Leaning Tree Wall and a narrow, forested draw runs up higher along the left side of the crag past the top of Manzanita Wall.
Access the top ledge up a steep gully on climber's left of the crag. A ledge half way up the gully leads out to the right onto the anchor ledge. Continue up the gully to a large, ledge at the very top of the crag.
The steeper gully at climber's right of the crag from the base of Flash in the Pan can also be used to reach the top - good for getting to the righthand side anchors. There is some loose talus at the top of the climber's right side of the crag, be careful with footing and dislodging missiles.
FB FLASH BACK 5.10c 20m **
Takes a line to the right of the righthand of the leaning trees. Great sustained climbing on positive holds with a strenuous mid-section. Start behind the leaning tree up steep, clean grey rock to the left of a boulder-pinnacle to a thin crack in a left facing corner on a semi-detached (but solid) block. Climb over the block into a shallow corner on good holds to mantle onto a narrow black ledge halfway up. Step left on the ledge and then continue direct alongside the tree up a steep, grinding wall. Pull onto a rest ledge and then a few easier moves to finish (8 bolts).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Philip Stone 6 May, 2014
FL FLASH LITE 5.10a 18m **
Scramble up the dusty gully at the right end if the crag, about 10m, to a narrow but decent belay ledge (1 bolt bottom anchor). Climb direct line with numerous wedge angle pinch holds then better horizontal incuts. Finish up awkward V-corner on thin holds to reach jugs to top out. (6 bolts - rap chain)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 11 July, 2014
BLACK CRAG
This small outcrop is easy to overlook but has a collection of quality moderate-routes well worth checking out. The rock is well-weathered, coarse, solid and provides highly-enjoyable climbing. Combined with nearby Xiǎo Crag it makes a good introductory destination although it’s best for smaller groups as room at the base is limited. The high trees surrounding the crag provide some welcome shade at the base on hotter summer days.
ACCESS: Black Crag is conveniently located just above and left of Leaning Tree Edge with Manzanita Wall also nearby to the west. The crag overlooks the forested draw that continues up to the base of The Great Wall complex so it can be easily included in a day out at several adjacent crags.
Follow the approach details as for Leaning Tree Edge from the Beech’s Mountain Trail. Where the path breaks off rightward to the base of Leaning Tree just continue 30m up the forested draw to the base of the obvious black rock face of Black Crag. The top can be reached on either the left or right side of the crag.
MX MALCOM X 5.9 23m **
A great climb, strenuous at times on fun rock. Start at the left end of the base ledge. Scramble up a shallow-angled right-trending ramp to a small grassy ledge. Start up an over-vertical wall on good holds. Climb direct over rounded features to an interesting flake. Strenuous moves (5.9) passing the flake and bulge to a rest ledge. Continue direct up the last pony wall to the anchor shared with BH.
(6 bolts, 1 piton - rappel ring anchor).
Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara
BM BLACK MAGIC 5.8 20m *
Generally good climbing with a perplexing crux. Start at the right end of the base ledge where the access gully to the Leaning Tree anchors heads off to the right. Climb steep rock for a few moves then step left onto a lower angle face. Continue up to a narrow ledge. Make a tricky series of moves (5.8+) relying on the superb friction for feet up an incipient crack. Easier climbing up to the shared anchor. (1 bolt, 3 pitons - bolt anchor).
FA: Tak Ogasawara 3 October, 2015
THE GREAT WALL
The Great Wall is a complex of steep rock divided by ledges and breaks, wrapping around the south & west side of South Chinese Mountain below the popular hikers’ trail lookout. The exposure and views from the climbs here are spectacular. It has some of the longest and most scenic climbing routes on Quadra.
Access: The Great Wall is reached via the same paths as Leaning Tree Edge. Follow the Beech’s Mountain trail and after just 150m take the climbers’ path uphill to an open, mossy meadow, The Great Wall can be seen high above the trees. Continue up the mossy ledges into the trees. Pass Leaning Tree Edge which is to the right and up the steep forest past the base of Black Crag. The start of ‘SILK ROAD’, at the lowest point of the wall, is the best landmark. A wide mossy ramp heads up to the right giving access to Xiǎo Crag and the base of Jumping Frog Wall. Behind is a nice lookout on a mossy ledge above Manzanita Wall, perfect for gearing up and hanging out.
The top can be reached by either a long hike around to the left or a steeper, more direct 3rd class gully to the right of Jumping Frog Wall (see photo topo above). Take care with descents on this high 50m wall.
LOTUS LAND
Locate the West Wall ~100m to the left from the start of Silk Road. Behind the first huge, leaning Douglas Fir Tree find an angled ramp leading up rightwards to a wide, grassy base ledge. The ledge runs ~75m to the left and ~25m to the right where it butts into Staircase to Heaven.
To reach the first group of climbs follow the base ledge left and up, as it rises and narrows. At ~50m there is an exposed notched-gap in the ledge. Squeeze under the roof and pass the notch (easy class 3) using a secure hand-line, the first three climbs are on a clean face of brown rock undercut by a deep, low roof.
CC CHOCKSTONE CORNER 5.7 18m ***
Climbs the obvious right-facing corner. Clip the first bolt of MS and then continue direct in the corner. Bring a 120cm sling to wrap around the chockstone. Continue up the corner pulling an overlap and up nice face to finish (2 bolts, Trad 0.25” - 2” - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Keenan Nowak 25 June, 2017
SH STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN 5.5 55m *
The leftmost line dividing The Great Wall from Lotus Land. A nice moderate route up the full height of the Great Wall. Decent climbing on mostly good rock.
Starts up low-angle face on a slightly right-trending ramp up to a ledge. Climb direct up stepped rock to gain a short left-facing corner. Pull up the corner (5.5) and onto a rib which is followed to the anchor. (5 bolts, Trad to 2” - rap ring anchor) Descend by scrambling up 4th class ledges and walk off left, or 2 rappels using the XANADU mid station.
FA: Tak Ogasawara, Keenan Nowak 24 June, 2017
OE ORIENT EXPRESS 5.10a 50m **
A sweet, direct line on good rock. Start up a shallow, prominently curved scoop ~6m left of the lowest point of the wall.
P1 - Climb up the scoop and then trend right on a ramp to avoid a roof. Mantle onto a ledge and head left. Pull up an overlap on to face of rounded blocks. Steep moves (10a) up a shallow corner to belay. 30m (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Head direct up steep, shallow corners to a mantle & ledge. Deek right & up a small arête to clip the perfectly placed last bolt then return down to tackle the steep crack direct (10a) to a strenuous finish. 20m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 7 May, 2017
JUMPING FROG WALL
Jumping Frog Wall is a tier at the right of The Great Wall. It can be identified by the large pine-tree and snag on the base ledge. The rock is excellent, it is steep with interesting character, great holds and a notably weathered texture. It is prone to winter seeping which helps keep it very clean. Routes are sporty & strenuous with similar high quality to nearby Leaning Tree. The position overlooking the forest and ocean below is spectacular and it’s easy to see why this was the first crag to be developed at Chinese Mountains.
ACCESS: Follow the approach path for Leaning Tree Edge and The Great Wall. Either of the ledge ramps heading right from the draw at Black Crag head up toward Jumping Frog. The most obvious is the wide ramp heading right from the start of SILK ROAD.
It is possible, but time-consuming, to reach the top anchors by making two x30m rappels down from the hikers’ lookout at the top of the South Chinese Mountain. Locate the first station 10m down the mossy ledges from the lookout. The second station can also be reached by traversing in on a ledge from the right, or by climbing AMPHIBIAN.
R REDNECK 5.8 20m
Start 2m right of pine snag. Climb up lower wall to the angled-ramp. Climb up low angle blocks into grey/white alcove. Steep moves to small triangular roof into a narrow corner. Easier climbing up a blocky rib to the anchor.
Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009
H HIPPIE 5.9 20m ***
A strenuous climb on steep, solid rock with beautifully positive holds. Start below the obvious large white/grey alcove. Climb the first short steep step to the angled ledge. Continue direct to a ledge at the base of the alcove. Head right up a narrow rib to a small but imposing roof. Pull over the roof and climb direct up a series of cracks.
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018 Route Setter: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 2009
WG A WISH GRANTED 5.10c 20m ***
The first bolted sport-route at Chinese Mountains on great rock with interesting character. Start behind the pine tree to the diagonal ledge. Gain a rib and face to a small alcove. Climb face to a small bulge. Pull over the bulge to two very shallow, stepped, left-facing corners. (5 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati 17 July, 2009
N NEWT 5.7 28m *
Climbs the heavily cracked rock on the recessed face at the right side of the wall. Start up a steep face to a ledge. Step right to a blocky, crack and corner system. Fun, steep, sustained climbing with a few strenuous moves on bomber holds. A great finish. Bring 2 or 3 cams for the nice crack. Has a bit of an ‘alpine feel’, with bolts! (6 bolts, Trad 0.25-2 - rap ring anchor)
FA: Chris Jensen, Hunter Lee, Philip Stone, Christine Reddick 20 May, 2017
XIAO CRAG
Xiǎo Crag (pron. ‘shee ow’, meaning ‘small’) is a small outcrop of nice, clean rock between the ledges directly above the top of Black Crag and below the base of Jumping Frog. There are clusters of gnarled Douglas Fir trees at the base and at the top and great atmosphere with The Great Wall looming overhead. The height and character of the crag is perfect for young and novice climbers but some care is needed at the base ledge. The top anchors can be reached via ramps on climbers’ left or right.
CS CHOP SUEY 5.8 7m
Avoid the steep step at the base and climb the left side of the crag.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017
W WONTON 5.9 8m *
A short but fun line up the nice face in the centre of the crag.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017
FC FORTUNE COOKIE 5.8 8m **
Takes the lower angled apron at the right side of the crag.
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 23 June, 2017
TAO CRAG
Tao Crag (pron. ‘dow’) is a south-facing tier of the Great Wall complex between Jumping Frog and the East Wall. The face is fairly clean with some steep rock in the lower-half easing in angle toward the mid-ledge. A ledge at half height, divides the crag and can be used to access the mid-anchors. The base area is spacious, the location, away from the busier crags, accessible anchors and overall layout makes Tao and neighbouring Xiǎo crags suited for instructional groups. It is set up for top roping with one route set for leading in two short pitches - a good choice for learning multi-pitch technique with little commitment.
ACCESS: Follow the approach for Black Crag up the forested draw and take either the left or right access paths to the top of Black Crag. Continue up ledges past the base of Xiǎo Crag to the open mossy meadow below Tao Crag. Can also be reached from The Great Wall base ramp over the top of Xiǎo Crag then down.
The mid-way ledge & anchors can be reached by following the path up to the base of Jumping Frog and cutting out right on the first obvious ledge. The very-top anchors are reached by the narrower second ledges that crosses the face to the right of Jumping Frog Wall and then up stepped ledges (see Great Wall photo topo)
CH CHI 5.9 (TBC) 17m *
Climb the narrow, steep tapered rib of dark rock to the right of the white rock at the left side of the crag, direct to a ledge. Continue direct up face above to the anchor on the mid-way ledge (rappel ring anchor) No lead bolts ATTP
Settter: Philip Stone
The next two climbs have two pitches. The upper pitches are easily mixed with the lower lines.
YN YIN 5.9 25m *
1) 5.9 13m. Start just right of CH climbing a steep corner to a ledge. Continue direct up face to the belay. (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
2) 5.6 12m Follow right-trending cracks and slabby-flakes. Walk-off left or rappel descent (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
Settter: Philip Stone
YG YANG 5.9 (TBC) 26m **
1) 5.8 14m. Start up the front of the cube-shaped block. Climb a short, steep wall onto the flat ledge at the top of the cube. Climb the short corner off the cube and then direct up the face to the anchor. (5 bolts - rap ring anchor)
2) 5.9 12m. Cross the mossy ledge and climb the nice face of clean, dark rock on either side of the bolt line to a steep step and then easier ground to the anchor. ( 5 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 May, 2017
ZD ZEND IT 5.6 (TBC) 16m *
Start in the corner to the right of the big cube block. Climb the corner on the steep face of white rock to the right. Pass a diagonal break and continue direct up the face above to the anchor. (bolted anchor)
Settter: Philip Stone
EAST WALL
The East Wall is located below the Chinese South Mountain lookout. The rock here is some of the best in the area, steep and very clean. The atmosphere and views over Hyacinthe Bay are spectacular. The east aspect is handy for its early morning sun or cooler afternoon shade. Take care with rappels on this 30m wall. This wall has the best undeveloped route potential in the area with much of it hidden in the trees to the right.
Access: The base of the wall is easy to reach off the main Chinese South Mountain trail. From the parking lot follow the main trail 15-20 mins to the junction for Chinese South Mountain. Head left toward the South Peak and cross a bridge. Leave the trail heading left, on the climbers’ path just above the creek. The path angles uphill to the bottom of the East Wall. The base trail continues leftward from the forest out onto an open mossy ledge that narrows to a dead-end at a fir tree and prominent arête on the wall.
The East Wall can also be reached from the Beech’s Mountain trail via the path to the top of Leaning Tree Wall or Black Crag and then right (east) along treed ledges below Jumping Frog and the Great Wall.
The top can be reached by either the hiking trail up to the lookout and then down ledges to the top of the crag, or by a steep, right-trending ramp/gully at the climbers’ right end of the crag then cut left along the top.
There is a rappel anchor at the base ledge ( below the start of DE) that can be used to descend down to ledges and the path that links to the Great Wall & Leaning Tree. If you already have the rope out, a quick rap can save some hiking to reach these crags.
WF 1001 WAYS TO FAME 5.9 ** 26m
Start ~6m right of the pine tree, just right of the start of M. Pull over the undercut base of the wall. Sneak up easier moves and pass the roof leftward to gain a corner. Follow a left-trending ramp then direct up the face on excellent rock to the anchor tucked below a bulging headwall. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Anthonie PrihatiningJati, Tyler Southam 2010
OT OVERTIME 5.10a *** 28m
Pull up into a steep corner with strenuous moves to start. Continue up the corner (10a) to a ledge. Above the ledge trend left to the left side of a smooth, steep wall. A challenging high-step (10a) and mantle leads to a ledge in an alcove. Follow the easy, left-leaning slab/ramp up to the belay. (10 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Hunter Lee, Philip Stone 7 May, 2017
TRAILSIDE CRAG
Trailside Crag is the closest crag to the parking lot. Reach by hiking along the west side trail just 200m
The top can be reached by a short walk up to the right side of the crag up the mossy draw that also leads up to Manzanita and Leaning Tree.
TC TRAILSIDE CRACK 5.6 20m ***
Follow the large steep crack up the corner. Trad pro 1-3.5" and an in-situ piton.
FA: Tak Ogasawara 9 May, 2015
HIDDEN CORNER
Hidden Corner Crag is on the downhill side of the west side trail immediately below Sickle Edge. Hike about 450m west of the trailhead parking lot on the west side trail, passing the Morte Lake connector junction, and upwards as the trail follows an old cat track. When Sickle Edge is visible on the uphill side look on the downhill (left) side for a spur path leading down mossy ledges. Follow the path to the base of the crag.
The top anchors can be reached from a small, pretty lookout 75m further up the trail. From the flat opening head right toward a fallen pine and then down an easy but exposed moss ramp to a comfortable anchor ledge. There is a slightly exposed shortcut up a mossy ramp that can be used to go between the base and the top anchors.
The crag is divided into two parts. The left (west) side is a wide triangluar face with a prominent 'skyline' rib running up the angled edge and a nice steep, dark, shaded wall below. From the corner-gully at the right end of the dark wall (90˚ to the dark face) is a smaller square-cut bluff with a even-cut faces and a nice jutting prow. There's some really fun climbs on super solid, feel-good rock.
FS FAIRY STEPS 5.5 ** 25m
A nice long fun, easy climb with just enough of a 5.5 crux to make it challenging for the grade. Climbs the clean rock up the broad face to the left of the prominent arête bounding the left side of the crag. Climb direct over several short, steep steps with good rests and fun problems. (2 bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 1 March, 2015
F FOUNDATION 5.4 ** 8m
A perfect scramble for the youngsters. Climbs a short, low-angle wall below Citizen’s Arête. Locate the anchor at the base of CA. Juggy feel-good climbing. Take care descending the ledges to the base (Top rope - 2 bolt anchor)
SV SECRET VALENTINE 5.8 * 17m
Starts at the bottom of the deep mossy corner-gully and step up onto the left edge of a square apron. Scramble up ledges as the rock steepens and the ledges get smaller. Make a tricky mantle to a short thin face, climb direct keeping close to the left edge of the face overlooking the corner-gully. Toward the top the climbing gets more strenuous on generous holds, with a fun, doable finish. (6 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 15 February 2015
BM BE MINE 5.7 ** 17m
A mirror image of the previous climb taking a line up from the right edge of the lower apron. Climb up the face along an arête above a mossy right-facing corner. Keep to the clean rock and then either step right into a shallow corner system for an easier finish, or keep to the steeper face and pull over the small roof directly above to finish. (7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Blouin 15 February 2015
M MAGPIE 5.9 * 14m
Squeaks a line up a strip of rock just left of the mossy corner at the far right side of the wall. Scramble over the lower blocks and climb the nice steep face above. Some fun moves on good, steep rock. (4 bolts- 2 rap ring anchor)
Route set by: Philip Stone
EVENING GROUP
The Evening Wall Group is located 700m west of the Chinese Mountains trailhead parking lot immediately above the west side trail. It is one of the driest of the crags and with its sunny, southwest exposure is a good choice for winter and early season.
The crags are split into several sections. At the bottom, tucked behind some trees and bushes, is a short, outcrop: Below the Horizon. To the right of that is a path that leads up to the base of a long, even-angled bushy gully which provides access to Wild Rose Country and the top anchors.
To the left of the gully is Horizon Wall and to the right Yardarm Bluff. From the base of the gully a wide ledge runs to the left (west) to the start of Horizon and then up a few gravel ledges to the base of a steep, chossy gully and the base of Twilight and Ironwood Corner.
EVENING WALL
Evening Wall is the high, wide, blocky, ledgey face overlooking the trail with some short, multi-pitch routes. Two exposed ledges linked at the left side (west) give access to the anchors in the middle of the wall.
The ledge at the top of Below the Horizon cuts to the base of a gully splitting Horizon Wall from Evening Wall and accesses a number of excellent climbs on Evening Wall.
CS CINDERELLA STORY 5.9 65m **
A fun, rambling adventure up the full height of the crag. Start up Bedtime Story for a 3 pitch 65m route.
P1 - Two options to start: to the left of the anchor make tricky moves up a shallow flake (10b) to gain an right-trending ramp; or to the right of the anchor step onto a small block and make strenuous moves (5.9) direct up the steep face. Pull off the face onto a slab. Climb two short corners to a grassy ledge 20m (5 bolts + TRAD 0.25 to 0.75 - rap ring anchor)
P2 - From the belay ledge climb direct up clean face underneath a prominent roof. Trend right to a left-facing corner below the roof. Pull up and out right to bypass the roof and then direct up the face. 5.7 20m (5 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016
MX MIDNIGHT EXPRESS 5.8 55m *
A moderate line with three short pitches up the full height of the crag with some fun climbing and possible variations.
P1 - Start behind a pair of large fir trees to the left of the top anchors on Below the Horizon. Climb a short steep step to gain slabby rock above. Belay on same ledge as base of Ironwood Corner 5.7 15m (4 bolts - rap ring anchor)
P2 - Climb the left edge of a huge detached pinnacle/flake. Continue direct above the pinnacle following cracks and steep face to the wide belay ledge. 5.8 20m (3 bolts + TRAD 0.5” to 2”)
P3 - From the belay ledge climb up a left-angled break and then direct over a small roof, easier to the left. Continue up over a series of blocks forming a detached flake and a final short steep headwall to finish. 5.7 20m (6 bolts - rap ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 12 April, 2015
Horizon Wall
Horizon Wall is the middle buttress of the three crags forming the Evening Wall complex. The start of the climbs are reached from a nice grassy ledge above the top anchors of Below the Horizon and a long vegetated gully that separates Horizon Wall from Yardarm Bluff to its left.
DW DARKWAVE 5.8 35m ***
A fine climb up the full height of the wall with good variety and an exciting finish. Start just right of the toe of the buttress at the base of the wide, vegetated-gully. Single bolt bottom anchor.
Gain the wall on black, water-washed rock trending left (5.8) to a ledge. From the left end of the ledge pull over a bulge (5.8) and climb up to a second ledge. Continue a short crack then trend left onto a nice face of coarse, weathered rock and climb direct to a short corner. Exposed moves out of the corner left onto a rib. Continue direct up the rib to a short slab. Cross the slab trending right and tackle an overlap to gain the final steep-headwall (5.8) and mantle on to the anchor ledge.
(10 bolts + cams to 3” - Rappel ring anchor).
FA: Renée Stone, Philip Stone 13 October, 2019
BELOW THE HORIZON
A small, clean outcrop of excellent rock tucked in behind a clump of bushes and a fir tree below the base of Horizon Wall. It is easily reached just a few metres above the Beech’s Mountain trail. Although short the crag has quality climbs and the easily accessed top anchors add up to make a good choice for warm-up, top-roping or introductory climbs. These routes would easily get an additional star if they were a bit longer.
PC PIRATES OF THE CARABINER 5.10b 13m *
From immediately behind the tree pull onto the wall using some burly slappers. Follow a lower angled face slightly left into the centre of the triangular face and then direct to the anchor (Top Rope)
Route Setter: Philip Stone 2017
DC DEADMAN'S CHEST 5.10c 12m *
Short, high-quality boulder moves, reminiscent of the 10-pluses at Keystone. Start on the left side of the roof alcove. Pull out of the alcove on superb holds and up steep face direct to a strenuous mantle problem. Traverse the foot ledge rightward and then up easier face moves direct to the anchor. (3 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April 2016
ST SUNKEN TREASURE 5.9 12m *
Short but super fun climb Start at the very right edge of the overhang. Climb past the angled crack onto a shallow prow then direct to finish. Strenuous with great holds. (4 bolts)
FA: Philip Stone, Tak Ogasawara 10 June 2014
EAGLE CRAG
Eagle Crag is the largest bluff in the Chinese Mountains - Morte Lake area with adventurous climbing on some of the Island's longest routes. It is a dramatic feature, in some ways could be considered the third peak of Chinese Mountains and has stunning views, especially to the west over Discovery Passage and the Vancouver Island mountains. The rock is some of the best in the area with nice continuous lines of relatively clean, very-coarse andesite.
The crag is located about 400m to the west of Sunset Slab and Evening Wall. It's ~60m high with most routes equipped with mid-station belays to break the climbs into 2 pitches/ 30m rappel descents.
Access is off the West Side/Beech's Mountain trail. From the main Chinese Mountains parking lot head west on the Beech’s Mountain trail passing Sickle Edge and the Evening Wall group. Continue on a long traverse across a talus slope to a pronounced corner on the trail where there is a small but fast-moving creek that cuts the trail corner and often washes out the trail. Leave the trail heading west across a series of easy open bluffs on an obvious path.
The crag is divided into three main sections by two steep gullies: the West Wing to the left (west) Main Wall in the centre and the East Wing to the right (east).
WEST WING
This is the large section of the crag to the far west (climber’s left) end of the crag. Follow the trail to the base of the prominent grey corner and then continue west along the base of the crag for another 75m. There is a small open meadow that makes a warm sunny hangout, overlooked by a small, rounded rock - the Eagle Egg - otherwise most of the base of the crag is shaded by trees.
FG FOOL'S GOLD 5.6 55m *
A fun, moderate climb up the far left end of the crag. Good, clean rock. Slabby climbing on generous holds and lots of exposure. Can be climbed in two pitches or one long pitch.
Start up an angled corner into a gully. Cross the gully above a rock pinnacle and up to a narrow ledge. Mantle over a short step onto a small but comfortable optional belay ledge. (2 ring rappel anchor). Head up left off the ledge onto a narrow, exposed, rounded face. Climb direct up a beautiful weathered face with sticky friction and generous holds. Rappel descent or walk-off left. (13 bolts - 2 rap ring anchor)
FA: Tak Ogasawara, Philip Stone 9 April, 2015
CX CRACK'TERYX 5.6 55m *
A long, wide crack running up the full height of the crag. Start up a short, steep step directly along the crack. Climb several steps with easier ground between. Optional belay at halfway. Protection is spaced but solid. (TRAD 1” - 4” - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 29 May, 2015
MT MOUSETRAP 5.9 50m **
P1 - Begin below a blocky bulge, climb up and step right into a right-facing corner. Climb direct over a series of steps to a ledge (5.7). Follow the righthand bolt line off the ledge up a steep face with some fun moves on superb, steep, grippy rock and pull onto a ledge 25m 5.9 (10 bolts - rap anchor)
P2 - Climb to the right off the ledge and up a clean face which steepens to a difficult bulge. Back out of the trap and renegotiate the bulge to gain a ledge. Two shorter, easier steps. 25m 5.9 (6 bolts - rap anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 10 July, 2016
The following outcrops are part of the EAGLE CRAG complex, found at the east end, below Flying Snag Wall.
WINDFALL WALL
Windfall Wall is located at the bottom of the East Wing of the Eagle Crag complex, immediately above the main base access trail. It is easy to see from the trail and identified by two large fallen Douglas Fir trees that cross over one another. One of the windfalls crosses the main base access trail so it’s almost impossible to miss as you duck under it.
TR TRAJECTORY 5.10d 18m **
An excellent climb that takes a direct line up the left side of the clean part of the crag. Start to the right of the undercut roof at the base and climb witheringly steep rock on positive holds. Trend left up steep face then directly up to gain a short lower angle face. Rest at the small ledge and then climb the right wall of the clean corner. Pull a small overlap to easier ground and the belay anchor. (7 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
Route Set: Philip Stone FA: Léo Pontier, Nic Manders 1 May, 2016
SWITCHBACK WALL
A small crag located at mid-height at the right (east) end of the Eagle Crag complex. Switchback Wall is immediately above and left of the east top access trail, halfway up at a prominent switchback where the trail turns to the right so it’s hard to miss. A cool, low-angled access ramp runs up from the far right edge of the wall up to the belay anchors and connects with the ledge at the base of Flying Snag Wall and Raven Corner. Some shady routes for hot days.
TT TIFFANY-TWISTED 5.8 22m **
Starts at the base of an old-growth Douglas Fir with a curved trunk 10m left of the east-access trail switchback. Gain the steep face and trend up and left. Climb direct to a shallow corner. Pass the roof up the corner to easier ground. Follow a corner ramp to finish. (8 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 15 April, 2016
W WASHBOARD 5.8 20m **
To the right of Switchback Arête is a nice even face. Climb the line directly up the centre of the face. (6 bolts - 2 rappel ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 15 April, 2016
LOWER EAGLE
Tucked below Eagle Crag, hidden by tall trees, is this nice, mostly-shaded crag. The wall curves from below the base of Eagle Crag Main Wall into a forested draw below the West Wing. The right (east) side has some nice weathered rock and the wall steepens to the left (west) with some potential for some harder, sporty lines.
Currently the crag with the most untapped development potential in the area.
ACCESS: Follow the access details for Eagle Crag on the previous page following the Beech’s Mountain trail to the washout-creek and then hike along the climber’s path traversing the mossy ledges westward. Pass the east access path junction keeping straight ahead looking for the base of Windfall Wall on the uphill side of the path. Immediately before the eponymous windfall a path breaks off on the downhill side and follows a wide mossy bench to the base of the crag.
Alternatively continue up the talus slope and along the base of the main crag to the base of the West Wing. At the far left (west) end of Eagle Crag a flagged route leads down a forested draw along the base of Lower Eagle, eventually linking with the Morte Lake Trail. The base of Lower Eagle may also be reached from the Morte Lake trail using this same path. 15 minutes from the Morte Lake trailhead watch for a flagged route up an overgrown logging road bed on the uphill side of the trail (right/north). Hike up the road bed following the flags to a steep forest draw. The crag overlooks the draw..
F FLEDGLING 5.8 * 27m
Start at the obvious break in the small, low undercut wall toward the right (east) end of the crag. Climb up passing a mossy ledge to the left and trend left into the base of a ‘V’-notch with a left-facing corner. Pass the notch then up the steep face to the left of the corner direct. An easier variation stems up the corner. (9 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 6 May, 2016
TF TAIL FEATHER 5.9 ** 25m
An obvious line of clean, continuous rock at the right (east) end of the crag. Start up the face climbing direct toward a small roof. Pass the roof to the left to gain the steep face above. Fun moves on small, positive holds direct as the face tapers to an arête. Follow the arête to ledges and the anchor. (8 bolts - rap ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 6 May, 2016
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