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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Guidebook Corrections, Updates & New Routes

Following are new routes and other updates to the 4th Edition (2018) of Quadra Island Rock Climbs>

Last updated 10/07/2018

page 49 - The Far East
Arch Anemone FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 10+
Triad FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 11-

page 58 & 59 - The Portal,
Tribute is confirmed at 5.7, Tick Magnet Direct (up the short prow) is 5.8, Black Ram goes at 10- and has 4 bolts. Star Happy should be graded 5.5.

page 74 - Yardarm Bluff
Chocolate Lily and Over the Yardarm both have rappel rings at the anchor now and the unlisted anchor shown in the photo topo on the left is now a rappel ring anchor for Loose Change and Trad-gically Gripped (see updated topo below).


YARDARM BLUFF

Yardarm Bluff, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Yardarm Bluff is an outcrop of fantastic rock forming the right (east) side of the Evening-Horizon Wall Complex. The bluff is separated from Horizon Wall by the long bushy gully running up past the base of Vista. The rock is solid, grippy, well-weathered and the bluff’s rounded features give some perfectly perplexing problems along with several fine, moderate routes.
To reach Yardarm Bluff follow the Beech’s Mountain Trail ~650m west of the trailhead parking to a short spur path at the base of Horizon Wall. Instead of heading toward Horizon strike off to the right through a small group of trees, over a few boulders and up a short, mossy ramp to the right side of the crag complex.
The bluff is similar in form to Horizon Wall with two distinct faces: a south-facing wall overlooking the trail and a steeper east-facing wall on the right. A narrow, exposed ledge runs across the south face linking to Horizon Wall. The top anchors are easily reached up mossy ledges and ramps on the right (east) side of the bluff. The Upper Realm can be reached this way as well. Download Updated Topo (PDF)>

LC LOOSE CHANGE 5.8+ 20m *
Start on the far left side of the ledge running across the south-facing wall (left of Chocolate Lily) at a 2 bolt bottom anchor. Start up a short, steep slot to gain the wide open face. Trend left and up the face with a few fun moves and a mix of good trad protection. (4 bolts + trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 7 July, 2018

TG TRAD-GICALLY GRIPPED 5.9 22m **
From the middle of the ledge crossing the south-face, at a single bolt bottom anchor, start up a steep step to gain a fine, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (0.3 Camalot useful) and then make a committing step left across a scoop to gain a rib alongside the same face that LC climbs. Climb the rib direct to the shared anchor with Loose Change. (8 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 7 July, 2018

CM CRYSTAL MALICE 5.9 20m *
At the right side of the narrow mossy ledge running below the face look for an angled break and roof running up to the left across the wall. Start at a single bolt, bottom anchor up a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.9) directly. Choose whether you want to sacrifice the best hand hold at the crux for a #0.4 cam between bolts 2 and 3. Step out of the corner to the left avoiding the roof. Scramble up to a rest ledge. Continue weaving up a series of short steps (5.7) and ledges (small wires & #3 Camalot useful) to the anchor.
(4 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 25 July, 2018


THE GREAT WALL - JUMPING FROG WALL

Great Wall, Chinese Mountains, Quadra Island, BC

SB SPRINGBOARD 5.8+ 45m ***
An excellent natural line that spans the gap between Jumping Frog Wall and The Great Wall. A good candidate for the best 5.8 at Chinese Mountains.
1) 5.8+ 25m. Start at the far left side of the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge, below the obvious overhang and chimney dividing the wall from The Great Wall proper. Start up the easy lower wall onto a ledge. Climb a steep, narrow rib under the roof. Locate the crucial overhead undercling and pull over a group of large detached blocks (8+) stepping left to a rest on the improbable springboard. Step up and then left crossing the chimney to gain the steep rib on its left edge. Continue direct up superb rock to a nice belay ledge. (11 bolts, Trad to 1.5” - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.8 20m. Climb direct from the anchor up a slab trending rightward toward the gully and then keep to the cleaner rock to its left to a narrow ledge. Finish up a fun crack splitting the final headwall to anchor at the edge of a nice treed ledge. Descend in 2x 25m rappels or scramble up to the South Chinese Mountains Peak lookout and walk off.
(3 bolts, Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 3 July, 2018


TAO CRAG

FS FENG SHUI 5.9 16m *
At the far right side of the base ledge the wall juts out into a steep prow of black rock. This climb climbs the prow direct, a few strenuous moves up the narrow arête leads to easier climbing past a series of blocky ledges. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 3 July, 2018


Support Route Development

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one average route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!


Ask the locals questions & find out what's new at Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

 

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our
Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.


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