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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Guidebook Corrections, Updates & New Routes

Following are new routes and other updates & improvements to the 4th Edition (2018) of Quadra Island Rock Climbs>

Last updated 19 October, 2019

Corrections/amendments to 4th edition (2018) guidebook text highlighted in red.


BLACK CRAG

page 33

Great Wall, Chinese Mountains, Quadra Island, BC

New Route

MX MALCOM X 5.9 T.B.C. 25m *
To the left of Black Hump. (6 bolts - 1 piton- shared anchor).

Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara


LOTUS LAND


New Route

TJ TRIPLE JUMP 5.7 45m *
A long line at the left end of Lotus Land.
1) (Hop) 5.3 30m 1 bolt + couple of medium nuts for protection.
2) (Step) 8m 5.7 1 bolt and one piton very clean and dry.
3) (Jump) 8m 5.7 A very nice crack from bottom to top clean and dry. Good trad protection.

Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara October 2019

ML MEDITATION ON THE LOTUS PETAL 5.9 15m *
Located left of Firecraker at the point where the base ledge narrows and angles up in a ramp toward Chockstone Corner. Climb a series of ribs and flutes on quailty black-coloured rock.
(3 bolts, 1 piton- rappel ring anchor).

FA: Scott Mitrenga, Tak Ogasawara 2 August, 2018

 


JUMPING FROG WALL

page 41 - Jumping Frog Wall
Hippie now has 8 bolts for leading and gets *** 5.8+ More details and updated topo below.
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018

Great Wall, Chinese Mountains, Quadra Island, BC

New Routes

SB SPRINGBOARD 5.9 45m **
A fun line that spans the gap between Jumping Frog Wall and The Great Wall.
1) 5.9 25m. Start at the far left side of the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge, below the obvious overhang and chimney dividing the wall from The Great Wall proper. Start up the easy lower wall onto a ledge. Climb a steep, narrow rib under the roof. Locate the crucial overhead undercling and pull over a group of large detached blocks (8+) stepping left to a rest on the improbable springboard. Step up and then left crossing the chimney to gain the steep rib on its left edge. Continue direct up superb rock to a nice belay ledge. (11 bolts, Trad to 1.5” - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.8 20m. Climb direct from the anchor up a slab trending rightward toward the gully and then keep to the cleaner rock to its left to a narrow ledge. Finish up a fun crack splitting the final headwall to anchor at the edge of a nice treed ledge. Descend in 2x 25m rappels or scramble up to the South Chinese Mountains Peak lookout and walk off.
(3 bolts, Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 3 July, 2018

A AMPHIBIAN
New, direct second pitch.
2) 5.6 30m. From the small belay ledge head up and left over easy steps to the base of a shallow, steep, open-book corner. Climb the corner favouring the left wall. Gain a shallow but defined arête and follow that direct. Cross a small ledge to a last short step up the continuation of the rib. Good rock, great exposure. Take care rappelling with a 60m rope. This pitch is exactly 30m - ensure rope ends are knotted. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 12 November, 2018

H HIPPIE 5.9 20m ***
Now bolted for leading. A strenuous climb on steep, solid rock with beautifully positive holds. Start below the obvious large white/grey alcove. Climb the first short steep step to the angled ledge. Continue direct to a ledge at the base of the alcove. Head right up a narrow rib to a small but imposing roof. Pull over the roof and climb direct up a series of cracks.
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018


TAO CRAG

page 44
Chi: now has rappel ring anchor
Yin: the first pitch now has 4 bolts for leading and the route icon can be considered blue.

New Route

FS FENG SHUI 5.9 16m *
At the far right side of the base ledge the wall juts out into a steep prow of black rock. This climb climbs the prow direct, a few strenuous moves up the narrow arête leads to easier climbing past a series of blocky ledges. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 3 July, 2018


THE FAR EAST

page 48 - The Far East
Enlightenment: the anchor at the top of the second pitch is now equipped with rappel rings.

page 49 - The Far East
Arch Anemone: FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 10+
Triad FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 11-

New Routes

EX EQUINOX 5.10a 45m *
The leftmost climb at The Far East. Locate the start on the left side of a mossy ledge 4-5m above the main base ledge/trail by a decent size firtree. 
1) 20m From the base of the Douglas Fir tree start up the steep, lower wall in a ferny corner. A few tricky, bouldery moves (10a) on slopers with good protection, trending rightward leads to a shallow corner. Fun moves (5.8) pulling through the corner and up onto a low angle slab to reach the belay. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 25m Step left 3m from the anchor to gain the toe of a nice, weathered rock rib. Climb direct up the centre of the rib. Above a mossy rest ledge the wall steepens with some fun finishing moves (5.7/8). 
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

EQ EVERYTHING QUADRA 5.10a 50m **
The longest route on this side of the Great Wall - East Wall complex. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined.
1) 20m Shared start with Equinox. From the base of the Douglas Fir tree start up the steep, lower wall in a ferny corner. A few tricky, bouldery moves (10a) on slopers with good protection, trending rightward leads to a shallow corner. Fun moves (5.8) pulling through the corner and up onto a low angle slab to reach the belay. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 20m From the anchor move up and right across a short slab to the base of a hanging corner. Pull up the small, steep arête with a funky mantle on to a rest. Shorter climbers will need a Quarrymanesque maneuver up the corner (5.9) to easier climbing. Gain a ledge then continue up and right a few mossy steps to a ledge and optional anchor at the foot of the steep, upper wall. 
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
3) 10m Step up rightward onto a block next to the anchor to gain the upper wall. Trend right at first and then direct up the exposed headwall on jugs (5.8). 
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

MW THE MIDDLE WAY 5.10d. 15m *
The centre of the pitch 2 finishes to Enlightenment. Balance atop the detached pinnacle and find inner peace before launching into a committing sequence up the steep, short headwall.
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Walk-off or rappel descent.

FA: Allan Ramsay 12 May, 2018

Heading to the right the base of the cliff angles uphill. Follow the access path up, passing the base of a massive Douglas Fir snag. The next routes start at the base of a large open-book corner with a curved, fallen fir tree jutting out at a 50 degree angle.

GH GARDEN OF HEATHEN 5.10a ** 40m
Named in homage the hard work of neighbouring route-developers and the aesthetics of climbing in the rainforest. A solid climb on varied but characterful rock interspersed with some wise, old trees.
1) 5.10a 25m. Several options to begin. The direct line starts up a large flake crack (#3 or 4 cam useful). Follow the flake and after the first bolt either climb direct or head right. A few strenuous moves lead to a rest. JS Jenga Start Alternatively start a few metres right pulling up a steep face to pass the initial flake (bolts).
Continue direct up fun face to a series of large corners. A corner crack leads up to the final headwall. Tricky moves to gain a series of thin cracks (#0.25-1 cams useful) and the fun finishing moves. (9 bolts + 4 cams ~4, 1 & 0.25 - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.10c 15m. Above the mid-way ledge is large, fallen, angled Douglas Fir tree in a mossy gully. Cross the ledge and make a difficult pull over a roofy-bulge (10c) to gain the wall to the right of the fallen fir. Alternatively avoid the bulge by keeping left in the gully (5.8) with a couple of trad placements (0.5-2") rejoining line at third bolt.
From the third bolt trend right following a rampy-arête (5.8) until a line leads up direct on nice weathered face to the anchor amongst the straggly pines. (6 bolts - rappel-ring anchor)
FA: P1 Nic Manders, Renée Stone, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019
P2: Andrew Schissler 20 August, 2019

WS WHITE PEOPLE SPICY 5.10a ** 22m
Climbs a direct line up the steep face immediately right of the steps and corners of GH. Start up easy slopers to a sloping ledge. Use underclings to pull onto the steep face above. Climb up a shallow square-cut chimney feature to a series of steep cracks and shallow corners. From an upper ledge tackle the final bulge to finish at the anchor on the mid-way ledge. (8 bolts, Trad 0.75" to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Andrew Schissler, Natasha Rafo 20 August, 2019

DN DISINTERGRATION 5.9 * 24m
The least technical, but sketchiest, of the routes on this part of the wall with some heady climbing on some dubious rock. Start at the base of the prominent left-facing corner. Climb the corner with a runout up to the third bolt over a series of steps. Leave the steps trending up onto the left wall of the corner and then direct to a small rest ledge below the final bulge. Pull up a short final corner to the anchor on the main mid-way ledge. (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 August, 2019

DC DREAM CRUSHER 5.10d *** 22m
If you can solve the first few metres and hang on you might just make it. Climbs the buttress immediately right of the prominent corner, where the path to the top angles up & off to the right.
Strenuous moves to get established on the lower wall (10d). Climb direct and then trend right onto a prow and follow it up on the crest and step right on to a ledge. Tackle the steep headwall laying away off the wide crack up to the anchor and the belay ledge. (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019

At the right end of the wall the base ledge angles up, rightward. Above is a steep face of good, solid rock.

D DEFORMITREE 5.11+ T.B.C. 25m
A strenuous climb, at the far right end of the Far East wall, on some of the best rock on the cliff. Two sets of anchors below and above the mid-way ledge allow options for climbing only the first pitch or both.
1) 5.11+ 15m Scramble carefully up a mossy rib of shattered rock to a small ledge at the base of a shallow, but distinct, right-facing corner. Stem gingerly up the corner exiting onto the main face. Trend right climbing steep rock on arm-destroying underclings and sidepulls to a pair of finger pockets. Finish onto a narrow ledge at the lower anchor (rings). If climbing pitch 2 consider crossing the mid-way ledge to the bottom anchor to the right of the deformed tree. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
2) 5.11- 10m Climb the short, initial wall to a ledge and awkward flaring roof. Pass the roof gaining a square-cut arête bounding the right end of the upper tier. Follow the arête up a few strenuous moves to an easy finish to the anchor. (5 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
OPEN PROJECT

The path that runs up the mossy ramps and ledges at the right end of the crag provides access to three major ledges that head off to the left: first is the mid-way ledge which cuts between pitches one and two of the climbs between Triad and Deformitree, a bolted handline reduces the exposure; second is a series of mossy steps which provide a shortcut to all the top anchors at The Far East including The Academy which is to the right; lastly heading right from the second ledge leads to the base of The Academy and a final steep, mossy gully that is a less exposed option to reach the top of The Far East and beyond to the South Peak lookout.

 


THE ACADEMY

The Academy is the righthand extension of the upper tier of The Far East complex, with the second pitches of Enlightenment and Arch Anenome at its far left (south) end. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.

Approach as for East Wall, then continue past the base of the Far East routes up the steep, rough top-anchor trail, taking a mossy ramp to climber's right. The path trends up and right past the top access, then turns the corner at a fallen tree to beneath The Academy. Can also approach from the South Peak by descending 50m but harder to find from above.

New Routes

MC MASS CONFUCIAN 5.11b 12m *
Second from the left; crimps lead to a large blocky hold. Employ a layback, some subtle holds, and possibly a convoluted snippet of wisdom to gain a high alcove. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018

PS PEKING STING 5.11a 12m *
Second from the right; from a blocky hold, launch up the bulging face into thinner territory. Keep your wits for the mantel.. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Allan Ramsay, 14 May, 2018

SF SEEP OF FAITH 5.10d 10m *
Far right side of The Academy; big moves up the seep-streaked face... (3 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018


THE GREYHORN

The Greyhorn is the prominent triangular boulder lying alongside the main Chinese Mountains Trail.

Citizens Arete, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

CT CAT TRACK FEVER 5.10d / V2 * 7m
The obvious line up the centre of the front face of the boulder. Fun moves on edges to a strenuous sequence off a sidepull/undercling near the top. (2 bolt anchor)


HIDDEN CORNER

page 55

New Route

SC SPENCER'S CORNER 5.7 8m *
A nice, short climb on the extreme right side of the Hidden Corner crag, easily located right above the access path. Climb the obvious clean corner on its left wall on nice weather rock to a fine belay. Anchor has 3 bolts which should allow variations to be top-roped. Walk-off right. (3 bolts - bolted anchor).
FA: Ryan Van Horne Spencer Lee, Hunter Lee and Philip Stone 18 March 2019


THE PORTAL

page 58 & 59 - The Portal,
Tribute is confirmed at 5.7, Tick Magnet Direct (up the short prow) is 5.8, Black Ram goes at 10- and has 4 bolts. Star Happy should be graded 5.5.


KEYSTONE CRAG

page 63 - Keystone Crag,
Throw Away The Key now has 6 bolts for leading and rappel ring anchor: 10c
Also in the description, the corner to the left isn't easier!

page 64 - Little Keystone,
New Route

MASTER KEY 5.8 10m *
Where SAFE CRACKER climbs the left-facing corner, keep just to the right of the corner up the left edge of the nice face. (4 bolts - Shared anchor with SC).
FA: Philip Stone November, 2018


HORIZON WALL

page 73

New Route

DW DARKWAVE 5.8 35m ***
An excellent route not especially hard for the grade but quite exposed as it runs up the full height of the wall. The climbing has good variety with nicely paced rests between difficulties to an exciting finish. Start just right of the toe of the buttress at the base of the wide, vegetated-gully between Horizon Wall and Yardarm Bluff.
Gain the wall on black, water-washed rock and trend left (5.8) on to a ledge. From the left end of the ledge pull over a bulge (5.8) and continue up to a second ledge. Follow a short crack then move left onto a nice face of coarse, weathered rock and climb direct to a short right-facing corner. Step left out of the corner onto a rib and up to a short slab. Cross the slab heading rightward to an overlap. Pull up past the overlap to gain the final steep-headwall. Enjoy the steep incuts (5.8) and manle to finish at the anchor. (10 bolts + cams to 3” - Rappel ring anchor).
FA: Renée Stone, Philip Stone 13 October, 2019


YARDARM BLUFF

page 74 - Yardarm Bluff
Chocolate Lily and Over the Yardarm both have rappel rings at the anchor now and the unlisted anchor shown in the photo topo on the left is now a rappel ring anchor for Loose Change and Trad-gically Gripped (see updated topo, link below).

Yardarm Bluff, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Yardarm Bluff is an outcrop of fantastic rock forming the right (east) side of the Evening-Horizon Wall Complex. The bluff is separated from Horizon Wall by a long bushy gully running up past the base of Darkwave. The rock is solid, grippy and well-weathered.

To reach Yardarm Bluff follow the Beech’s Mountain Trail ~650m west of the trailhead parking to a short spur path at the base of Horizon Wall. Instead of heading toward Horizon strike off to the right through a small group of trees, over a few boulders and up a short, mossy ramp to the right side of the crag complex.

The bluff is similar in form to Horizon Wall with two distinct faces: a south-facing wall overlooking the trail and a steeper east-facing wall on the right. A narrow, exposed ledge runs across the south face linking to Horizon Wall, a handline secured with bolts helps protect activity on the ledge. The top anchors are easily reached up mossy ledges and ramps on the right (east) side of the bluff or up the steeper gully to the left between Yardarm and Horizon Wall. The Upper Realm can also be reached either way.

New Routes

LS LITTLE STRATHCONA 5.6 28m **
This fun climb follows a series of ledges, corners, cracks and short faces up the arête bounding the left side of the crag, overlooking the gully between Yardarm and Horizon Wall.
Two possible starts: either traverse in from the left, across the ledge at the base of the gully between Yardarm and Horizon Wall to a bottom anchor, or start higher up to the right, at the start of LC, on the ledge crossing the south face of Yardarm. Trend left along the ledge to join the route above the first steps.
Climb a series of short steps and ledges to reach a nice face and crack. Climb direct to gain the arête as it becomes more defined. Follow cracks and corners up the arête. Finish up a high-friction slab to the anchor. Take special care rappelling not to swing off to the left into the gully. (Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor). Possible lower and upper pitches to come for a final, three-pitch route.
Route Setter: Philip Stone October 2019

LC LOOSE CHANGE 5.8+ 20m *
Start on the far left side of the ledge running across the south-facing wall (left of Chocolate Lily) at a 2 bolt bottom anchor. Start up a short, steep slot to gain the wide open face. Trend left and up the face with a few fun moves and a mix of good trad protection. (4 bolts + trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 7 July, 2018

TG TRAD-GICALLY GRIPPED 5.9 22m **
From the middle of the ledge crossing the south-face, at a single bolt bottom anchor, start up a steep step to gain a fine, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (0.3 Camalot useful) and then make a committing step left across a scoop to gain a rib alongside the same face that LC climbs. Climb the rib direct to the shared anchor with Loose Change. (8 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 7 July, 2018

CM CRYSTAL MALICE 5.9 20m *
At the right side of the narrow mossy ledge running below the face look for an angled break and roof running up to the left across the wall. Start at a single bolt, bottom anchor up a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.9) directly. Choose whether you want to sacrifice the best hand hold at the crux for a #0.4 cam between bolts 2 and 3. Step out of the corner to the left avoiding the roof. Scramble up to a rest ledge. Continue weaving up a series of short steps (5.7) and ledges (small wires & #3 Camalot useful) to the anchor.
(4 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 25 July, 2018


SUNSET SLAB

page 76 - A Dream of Wild Onions
Now has 12 bolts and rappel rings at the optional mid-station anchor.

Yardarm Bluff, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

New Routes

OS OVERSITE 5.8 35m **
Fantastic climb on great rock and an interesting feature. Head left on a narrow mossy ledge ~8m from base of SW to an alcove below a steep wall, 2 bolt bottom anchor. 
Start scrambling up left up steps and small corners to a ledge below a wedge-shaped face. Gain the face with a committing move to make the third clip (5.8). Continue direct on superb rock finishing the pitch up a steep face. (8 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Either belay at the first anchor or romp up 12m of low 5th class (3 bolts -rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 September, 2019

SW SATIRIC OF THE WEST 5.8 30m *
Start just a few metres left of the shared starting point of SS & DW from a mossy ledge. Make a tricky (5.8) move stepping up a small corner to gain a left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp left then climb direct over sloping steps with a fun pull onto a short slab. Cross the slab to a head wall. Climb the head wall (5.8) to easier slab. Finish at SS anchor or station just a bit lower to the left. (10 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 28 September, 2019


Support Route Development

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one average route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right, e-transfer your contribution to climbers@quadraisland.ca or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!


Ask the locals questions & find out what's new at Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

 

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our
Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.


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