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Quadra Island, British Columbia, Canada

Rock Climbing around Quadra Island

seaside crags and mountainside walls

Guidebook Corrections, Updates & New Routes

Following are new routes and other updates & improvements to the 4th Edition (2018) of Quadra Island Rock Climbs>

Last updated 16 April, 2019

Corrections/amendments to 4th edition (2018) text highlighted in red.


BLACK CRAG

page 33

Great Wall, Chinese Mountains, Quadra Island, BC

New Route

MX MALCOM X 5.9 T.B.C. 25m *
To the left of Black Hump. (6 bolts - 1 piton- shared anchor).

Route Setter: Tak Ogasawara


LOTUS LAND

New Route

LP MEDITATION ON THE LOTUS PETAL 5.9 15m *
Located left of Firecraker at the point where the base ledge narrows and angles up in a ramp toward Chockstone Corner. Climb a series of ribs and flutes on quailty black-coloured rock.
(3 bolts, 1 piton- rappel ring anchor).

FA: Scott Mitrenga, Tak Ogasawara 2 August, 2018



JUMPING FROG WALL

page 41 - Jumping Frog Wall
Hippie now has 8 bolts for leading and gets *** 5.8+ More details and updated topo below.
FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018

Great Wall, Chinese Mountains, Quadra Island, BC

New Routes

SB SPRINGBOARD 5.9 45m **
A fun line that spans the gap between Jumping Frog Wall and The Great Wall.
1) 5.9 25m. Start at the far left side of the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge, below the obvious overhang and chimney dividing the wall from The Great Wall proper. Start up the easy lower wall onto a ledge. Climb a steep, narrow rib under the roof. Locate the crucial overhead undercling and pull over a group of large detached blocks (8+) stepping left to a rest on the improbable springboard. Step up and then left crossing the chimney to gain the steep rib on its left edge. Continue direct up superb rock to a nice belay ledge. (11 bolts, Trad to 1.5” - rappel ring anchor)
2) 5.8 20m. Climb direct from the anchor up a slab trending rightward toward the gully and then keep to the cleaner rock to its left to a narrow ledge. Finish up a fun crack splitting the final headwall to anchor at the edge of a nice treed ledge. Descend in 2x 25m rappels or scramble up to the South Chinese Mountains Peak lookout and walk off.
(3 bolts, Trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 3 July, 2018

A AMPHIBIAN
New, direct second pitch.
2) 5.6 30m. From the small belay ledge head up and left over easy steps to the base of a shallow, steep, open-book corner. Climb the corner favouring the left wall. Gain a shallow but defined arête and follow that direct. Cross a small ledge to a last short step up the continuation of the rib. Good rock, great exposure. Take care rappelling with a 60m rope. This pitch is exactly 30m - ensure rope ends are knotted. (11 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 12 November, 2018

H HIPPIE 5.9 20m ***
Now bolted for leading. A strenuous climb on steep, solid rock with beautifully positive holds. Start below the obvious large white/grey alcove. Climb the first short steep step to the angled ledge. Continue direct to a ledge at the base of the alcove. Head right up a narrow rib to a small but imposing roof. Pull over the roof and climb direct up a series of cracks.
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 12 November, 2018


TAO CRAG

page 44
Chi: now has rappel ring anchor
Yin: the first pitch now has 4 bolts for leading and the route icon can be considered blue.

New Route

FS FENG SHUI 5.9 16m *
At the far right side of the base ledge the wall juts out into a steep prow of black rock. This climb climbs the prow direct, a few strenuous moves up the narrow arête leads to easier climbing past a series of blocky ledges. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 3 July, 2018


THE FAR EAST

page 49 - The Far East
Arch Anemone FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 10+
Triad FA: Allan Ramsay, Andrew Schissler 30 April, 2018 confirmed at 11-

New Routes

EX EQUINOX 5.10a 45m *
The leftmost climb at The Far East. Locate the start on the left side of a mossy ledge 4-5m above the main base ledge/trail by a decent size firtree. 
1) 20m From the base of the Douglas Fir tree start up the steep, lower wall in a ferny corner. A few tricky, bouldery moves (10a) on slopers with good protection, trending rightward leads to a shallow corner. Fun moves (5.8) pulling through the corner and up onto a low angle slab to reach the belay. (6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 25m Step left 3m from the anchor to gain the toe of a nice, weathered rock rib. Climb direct up the centre of the rib. Above a mossy rest ledge the wall steepens with some fun finishing moves (5.7/8). 
(8 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

EQ EVERYTHING QUADRA 5.10a 50m **
The longest route on this side of the Great Wall - East Wall complex. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined.
1) 20m Shared start with Equinox. 
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
2) 20m From the anchor move up and right across a short slab to the base of a hanging corner. Pull up the small, steep arête with a funky mantle on to a rest. Shorter climbers will need a Quarrymanesque maneuver up the corner (5.9) to easier climbing. Gain a ledge then continue up and right a few mossy steps to a ledge and optional anchor at the foot of the steep, upper wall. 
(6 bolts - rappel ring anchor)
3) 10m Step up rightward onto a block next to the anchor to gain the upper wall. Trend right at first and then direct up the exposed headwall on jugs (5.8). 
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor)

FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 20 March 2019

MW THE MIDDLE WAY 5.10d. 15m *
The centre of the pitch 2 finishes to Enlightenment. Balance atop the detached pinnacle and find inner peace before launching into a committing sequence up the steep, short headwall.
(3 bolts - rappel ring anchor) Walk-off or rappel descent.

FA: Allan Ramsay 12 May, 2018

Heading to the right the base of the cliff angles uphill. Follow the access path up, passing the base of a massive Douglas Fir snag. The next routes start at the base of a large open-book corner with a curved, fallen fir tree jutting out at a 50 degree angle.

CS CAT SKIN 5.10a *** 26m
Several options to start. The obvious line heads up a large flake crack (#3 or 4 cam useful). Follow the flake and after the first bolt either climb direct or head right. A few strenuous moves lead to a rest. Continue direct up fun face to a series of large corners. A corner crack leads up to the final headwall. Tricky moves to gain a series of thin cracks (#0.25-1 cams useful) and the fun finishing moves. Descend by rappel or scramble-off right with care. (9 bolts + 4 cams ~4, 1 & 0.25 - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Nic Manders, Renée Stone, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019

JS JENGA START 5.10a
Climb the steep face to a square cut slot up the righthand bolt line. Join the direct start at the third bolt.

DC DREAM CRUSHER 5.11a *** 24m
If you can solve the first few metres and hang on you might just make it. Climbs the buttress immediately right of the prominent corner, where the path to the top angles up & off to the right. Strenuous moves to get established on the lower wall (11a). Climb direct and then trend right onto the a prow and follow it up on the crest and step right on to a ledge. Tackle the steep headwall up to the anchor with some beautiful finger locks to the belay ledge. Descend by rappel or scramble-off right with care. (9 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 31 March, 2019

 


THE ACADEMY

The Academy is the righthand extension of the upper tier of The Far East complex, with the second pitches of Enlightenment and Arch Anenome at its far left (south) end. Four bolted puzzles increase in difficulty and steepness from right to left; all face climbing which asks for a bit of study before giving up its secrets. Rock is sound and falls are clean. Left-hand routes share a rap anchor; right-hand routes share another.

Approach as for East Wall, then continue past the base of the Far East routes up the steep, rough top-anchor trail, taking a mossy ramp to climber's right. The path trends up and right past the top access, then turns the corner at a fallen tree to beneath The Academy. Can also approach from the South Peak by descending 50m but harder to find from above.

New Routes

MC MASS CONFUCIAN 5.11b 12m *
Second from the left; crimps lead to a large blocky hold. Employ a layback, some subtle holds, and possibly a convoluted snippet of wisdom to gain a high alcove. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018

PS PEKING STING 5.11a 12m *
Second from the right; from a blocky hold, launch up the bulging face into thinner territory. Keep your wits for the mantel.. (4 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, 14 May, 2018

SF SEEP OF FAITH 5.10d 10m *
Far right side of The Academy; big moves up the seep-streaked face... (3 bolts - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Allan Ramsay, 7 May, 2018


HIDDEN CORNER

page 55

New Route

SC SPENCER'S CORNER 5.7 8m *
A nice, short climb on the extreme right side of the Hidden Corner crag, easily located right above the access path. Climb the obvious clean corner on its left wall on nice weather rock to a fine belay. Anchor has 3 bolts which should allow variations to be top-roped. Walk-off right. (3 bolts - bolted anchor).

FA: Ryan Van Horne Spencer Lee, Hunter Lee and Philip Stone 18 March 2019


page 58 & 59 - The Portal,
Tribute is confirmed at 5.7, Tick Magnet Direct (up the short prow) is 5.8, Black Ram goes at 10- and has 4 bolts. Star Happy should be graded 5.5.

page 63 - Keystone Crag,
Throw Away The Key now has 6 bolts for leading and rappel ring anchor: 10c
Also in the description, the corner to the left isn't easier!

page 64 - Little Keystone,
New Route

MASTER KEY 5.8 10m *
Where SAFE CRACKER climbs the left-facing corner, keep just to the right of the corner up the left edge of the nice face. (4 bolts - Shared anchor with SC).

FA: Philip Stone November, 2018


YARDARM BLUFF

page 74 - Yardarm Bluff
Chocolate Lily and Over the Yardarm both have rappel rings at the anchor now and the unlisted anchor shown in the photo topo on the left is now a rappel ring anchor for Loose Change and Trad-gically Gripped (see updated topo below).

Yardarm Bluff, rock climbing Quadra Island, BC

Yardarm Bluff is an outcrop of fantastic rock forming the right (east) side of the Evening-Horizon Wall Complex. The bluff is separated from Horizon Wall by the long bushy gully running up past the base of Vista. The rock is solid, grippy, well-weathered and the bluff’s rounded features give some perfectly perplexing problems along with several fine, moderate routes.
To reach Yardarm Bluff follow the Beech’s Mountain Trail ~650m west of the trailhead parking to a short spur path at the base of Horizon Wall. Instead of heading toward Horizon strike off to the right through a small group of trees, over a few boulders and up a short, mossy ramp to the right side of the crag complex.
The bluff is similar in form to Horizon Wall with two distinct faces: a south-facing wall overlooking the trail and a steeper east-facing wall on the right. A narrow, exposed ledge runs across the south face linking to Horizon Wall. The top anchors are easily reached up mossy ledges and ramps on the right (east) side of the bluff. The Upper Realm can be reached this way as well. Download Updated Topo (PDF)>

New Routes

LC LOOSE CHANGE 5.8+ 20m *
Start on the far left side of the ledge running across the south-facing wall (left of Chocolate Lily) at a 2 bolt bottom anchor. Start up a short, steep slot to gain the wide open face. Trend left and up the face with a few fun moves and a mix of good trad protection. (4 bolts + trad to 3” - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Nic Manders, Philip Stone 7 July, 2018

TG TRAD-GICALLY GRIPPED 5.9 22m **
From the middle of the ledge crossing the south-face, at a single bolt bottom anchor, start up a steep step to gain a fine, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (0.3 Camalot useful) and then make a committing step left across a scoop to gain a rib alongside the same face that LC climbs. Climb the rib direct to the shared anchor with Loose Change. (8 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).

FA: Philip Stone, Nic Manders 7 July, 2018

CM CRYSTAL MALICE 5.9 20m *
At the right side of the narrow mossy ledge running below the face look for an angled break and roof running up to the left across the wall. Start at a single bolt, bottom anchor up a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner (5.9) directly. Choose whether you want to sacrifice the best hand hold at the crux for a #0.4 cam between bolts 2 and 3. Step out of the corner to the left avoiding the roof. Scramble up to a rest ledge. Continue weaving up a series of short steps (5.7) and ledges (small wires & #3 Camalot useful) to the anchor.
(4 bolts + trad - rappel ring anchor).
FA: Philip Stone, Renée Stone 25 July, 2018


Support Route Development

Donations of bolts & hangers are very welcome to support the development of this very promising climbing area. A donation of $100 will buy 12 bolts + hangers and belay anchors, enough to equip one average route, but any contribution is appreciated.

Either use the PayPal button right, e-transfer your contribution to climbers@quadraisland.ca or purchase your bolts from MEC and ship your donation of 3 inch 3/8" stainless steel wedge bolts and/or hangers to: Quadra Climbers c/o PO Box 280 Quathiaski Cove BC V0P 1N0

- Thanks, see you at the crags!


Ask the locals questions & find out what's new at Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.

 

Rock climbing on Chinese Mountains Quadra Island, BC
Photo: A Dream of Wild Onions, Sunset Slab.

Ask the locals questions and find out what's new at our
Quadra Climbers FaceBook Group>

QUADRA ISLAND ROCK CLIMBING Guidebook available>

Mail order your copy today or ask for Quadra Island Rock Climbs published by Wild Isle at your local outdoor retailer or look for it on Quadra Island at Book Bonanza in Quathiaski Cove or at the Yak Shack in Heriot Bay.


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